Checking in

Wow.  My last post was in August 2017?!  That’s crazy.  It’s also crazy that we’ve been back to Stockholm since then.  We had our second visit to Stockholm in May 2019.  I guess when we visited Scandinavia in 2017 I thought it was a once in a lifetime trip and we wouldn’t return.  It was once in a lifetime in that it was an incredible opportunity to be with all of Dave’s immediate family.  But it turns out, I can travel, even though it involves a lot of anxiety.  So anyway, yes, it has been a very long time since I’ve posted to this blog, and we enjoyed another trip to Stockholm (where I bought another pair of Swedish Hasbeens and both of these pairs of clogs are some of my favorite party shoes), and we visited Helsinki on that trip and fell hard for it.  Design is everywhere in Helsinki and we loved that city.   I saw my first opera there, explored the design district, had lunch by myself, did a 5 hour walking tour, and loved it.  Really loved it.

So, what’s new?  Welp.  There is this pandemic thing happening.  And that is really scary.  And social distancing.  And working from home.  And here’s the thing, I am scared, and I get anxious when I watch or read the news.  So I decided to limit my exposure.  Is that a luxury?  Absolutely.  I also realize that I am incredibly lucky that I can work from home.  And that I am going to continue to get paid.  And that I don’t have kids to entertain and educate and worry about.  I am worried about small businesses.  Very worried.  And I can only buy so many gift cards and order for delivery.  I hope that there is a funding process to keep our small businesses alive and well during this whole thing.  But even though I am stressed about the current situation, I am tapping into all I learned from the Scandinavian countries we visited: hygge (Danish), sisu (Finnish), lagom (Swedish) and koselig (Norwegian).  Basically be resilient, make the best of it and enjoy being cozy at home.  I did my yoga video this morning in candlelight.  And if you can get a candle with a wooden wick I highly recommend it.  It sounds like a crackling fire!  I turned on the fairy lights in my fireplace.  I put fresh sheets on the bed so it is a treat to go to sleep at the end of the day.  I ordered some treats from local small businesses to make it feel special and like a celebration.   I am still scared.  And I wish I could see my friends and family in person, but I love my home and I am grateful to be here.  And, it gave me time to post here, 2.5 years later!  So silver linings everywhere you look.  Stay healthy!

Artipelag

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One of the excursions I liked best in Sweden was the boat trip we took to Artipelag.  The museum is located in the archipelago and you can get there by bus or car (20 min.) or by boat from Stockholm (1.5 hours each way).  We opted to travel by boat.  Bonnie & Kent were in Scandinavia a few years ago on a cruise and we remembered that some of the most beautiful photographs were ones they took as the ship travelled through the archipelago.  We didn’t get nearly the views that they did, but we also didn’t need to take a cruise to get the views we did.  So we’ll count this one as a win.  (tangent: there is something about cruises that I find off-putting.  I get that they are easy and that you just wake up in your next destination.  But you also are completely on someone else’s schedule and you only get a very limited number of hours in each city.  I don’t like the idea of that lack of control.  Plus, I really like to spend some time getting to know a place more than I want to run to a select number of pre-selected venues.  That’s just me.  I actually really like doing the research and planning part of a vacation.  I know that some people really don’t like that part of travel.  But the research is my favorite part.  It’s the actual travel that usually has me full of anxiety.  Sorry for the long tangent.)

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When I was looking into Stockholm I came across Artipelag and some people had commented that it can be a pain to get there.  But everyone commented that it was worth the pain.  When I saw the photos of the location (and the fact that there was a huge boulder coming out of the floor of the cafe) I put it pretty high on my list of places that I wanted to see while in Stockholm.

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We bought the boat tickets in advance, so I was SO HAPPY to see the sun shining when the day finally arrived.  Seriously, after the deluge of the kayak trip and the daily rain showers I was so ready for a good sunny day.

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We arrived at the slip with plenty of time, which meant that we were able to snag a premium seat at the back of the boat with an unobstructed view.  I loved the look of the Swedish flag flying thru the bright blue sky as we traveled thru the archipelago.

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There were many cabins along the edges of the water, some modern, and some more traditional.  We had all been commenting on how there seems to be two approved colors for houses in Sweden, red or yellow.  I was partial to the yellow.  Especially when combined with the orange clay tile roof.  Houses of yellow, orange and white with the added touch of greenery is a-ok in my book!

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The exhibits in the museum were pretty good.  I liked the one featuring the shipping containers most.  But the museum itself and the views out the huge windows was the real draw.  I wanted to stay there longer so that we could have explored the trails on the grounds more, but we were limited to the schedule of the boat back (see what I mean about my hesitation about cruises?  It was nerve wrecking for me to know that every minute was clicking away on someone else’s countdown.  But that is a control thing and I am fully aware of the negative issues that a control freak deals with.  Believe me.  I do not claim to have this whole thing figured out for the best of everybody, just for the best of me.).

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When we got back to Stockholm we decided to walk over to Gamla Stan and walk around the old city.  It was a mixed bag in terms of balancing the incredible architecture and the numerous shops overflowing with crap catering to tourists.  But I did manage to snag a pair of egg yolk yellow Swedish Hasbeens clogs at 50% off (maybe about $65. USD) and I am just tickled by these shoes!  After gamla stan we headed home and the rest of the family was there ready for dinner.  I went to bed that night feeling so grateful for that amazing day out in the archipelago and on that island.  The new shoes didn’t hurt.  They rarely do.

You say sunshine, I say not in Scandinavia

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Did you hear about the one about the Dane, Norwegian and Swede?  They all carried their umbrellas into the bar to escape the rain.  Bad joke, but seriously.  We had a lot of rain on this trip!  And no shortage of it in the last half hour of our two-hour kayak tour through Stockholm.

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The tour started out with cloudy skies and maybe a hint or two of some sun.   We had some neat views of Stockholm, including City Hall, but mostly we saw boats.  Really cool boats.  Oh, when we arrived on Saturday, the day before the kayak tour, we arrived during the Pride parade.  There were 45,000 in the parade, and over 500,000 people had come to participate.  It was crazy.  On the kayak tour we passed a Coast Guard ship and it was flying a rainbow flag.  How cool.

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Down one canal there was an incredible collection of old wooden boats.  I knew that Kent would enjoy this part of the trip.  And fortunately the sun was out for the wooden boat tour portion of the kayak trip.  But.

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But then all of a sudden, the sky cracked open and it started pouring.  Not raining.  POURING.  Hard, fierce rain, and wind and oh the waves.  The waves were crashing over the front of the kayak and I was sure we would swamped.  I was paddling so hard I was convinced I was the only one trying to get the kayak across the canal.  I asked Dave if he was paddling just to be sure he hadn’t been knocked out by the rain and I had suddenly become responsible for getting him safely across the stormy seas.  His laughter indicated that he was still awake.  And paddling.  Everyone wanted photos of this because it was so insane, but no one was dumb enough to try to use (and lose) their phone or camera during the deluge.  I was soaked.  And guess what, I was the only dum-dum who didn’t bring a change of pants!  Wearing wet underwear all day is a particular type of torture.

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The umbrellas were working over time, but it was so comical that it almost seemed like, whats even the point.  I didn’t have a dry inch on me.  But this was week two, so we were used to the weather and carried on.  We hit a traditional handicraft store that was incredible, and then made our way to the Moderna Museet and ArkDes (architecture and design museum) before taking the ferry back to Slussen to get the T (they actually call the train the T in Stockholm, so it made it super easy for us!) home.

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The neighborhood where our airbnb was located had the cutest little outdoor bar.  We are always saying that we need a wine bar in our neighborhood and when a 7-11 located on a corner in a rounded building vacated we were SURE that someone would open a wine bar there with seats in the curved window.  It is now a bank.  Of course it is.  Because if it is not a cell phone store or a daycare center, it will be a bank.   Well anyway, back to Sweden.

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We met a cat outside the bar.  I named her Carson after McCullers.  Because cats are named after Southern Women Writers.  And while we sat at the outdoor bar I watched Carson climb the stairs and walk right into the dining room.  She was removed by a man in an apron and placed on the ground.  Next thing you know she is up on the bar looking as if she is about to start mixing cocktails.  A Tom Cat Collins perhaps.  She was again removed by a man in an apron, but this time she was placed outside the little fence surrounding the place.  I watched her cross the street and head out looking like a lonely hunter.

 

We’re with the band

Not really, I just always wanted to say that.  We did go on a tour of sorts though.  A church tour.   Well if you call two churches in the same day a tour, which I just did.

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I think I mentioned before, but if I didn’t, the reason for this trip to Scandinavia was to celebrate Bonnie & Kent’s 50th wedding anniversary.  Woot woot.  And one thing that Kent really wanted to do was to go to Bottnaryd to see the church where his grandfather was baptized.

The Bottnaryd Kyrka (oh, that word there with the ky, that’s pronounced shirka.  no, I am not kidding!) was built in 1666, completed in 1667, but there was no money to decorate the church until 1693 when they hired Anders Falk to paint the inside walls and ceilings.

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There was a medieval wooden church on the property until it was destroyed in 1666 and replaced by the current church.

IMG_0534.jpgBut the baptismal font is medieval.  Dave’s great-grandfather AEJ, later AEP, was baptized here in 1870.  He wanted to go into the ministry and left in 1888 for America.  He was invited back in 1929 to preach at his childhood church.

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When Kent retired it ended something like 165 years (or 115, it depends on who you ask on what day) of a Palmquist at the pulpit!  That’s an awful lot of “Can I get an Amen?!”

 

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The bell towers are kept separate from the church in their own structures.  I am not sure why they were designed this way, but both churches on our tour featured this style.

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The other church on our tour was the historic painted church in Habo.  I don’t have any information about this one, but the photos (above and below) show that it was really something to look at.  It was neat to experience Kent’s return to the Bottnaryd church.  It did make me want to explore my family history a bit more.  That is something my mom and I were doing on Ancestry.com before she had her stroke.  I don’t think she got too far, but maybe someday I will try to pick it up again and see what I can find.

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Oslo

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We travelled by train from Bergen to Oslo.  Some of the train ride was back tracking to our Nutshell trip, but once we were beyond Myrdstral (no idea on that spelling, and that is probably wrong, but you don’t have editing privileges so deal with it.) it was all new.  And still beautiful.  Really beautiful country.

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Once we got to Oslo we were pretty beat from the long train ride (I think it was about 7 hours to cross the country from West to East) and the early wake up.  It sure was nice to have assigned seats in the komfort car.  Well worth the extra $10 or so dollars.  That night after an early group dinner Dave and I walked 3 miles to the Vigeland sculpture park.  Apparently Soren and Kaisa did not like the park when they were there before Bergen because the nude sculptures were “weird.”  I get that.  It was good to go for a long walk after sitting on the train all day, and the park was pretty.

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The next day we walked down to the Opera House.  One thing we’ve noticed is that just about city in Scandinavia has an opera house to boast about.  After being blinded by the sun (which we hadn’t seen in days) on the white marble, we headed to the National Architecture Museum.  It was a last minute decision to go there, and what a pleasant surprise!  It ended up being our favorite museum visited so far.  The little models were incredible.  The building itself was pretty neat.  And we had the best cup of coffee we’ve had since leaving Brookline.  We hate to say it, but it *might* be better than 4A!

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From architecture to modern art.  We headed along the water to the Astrup Fearnley Museet of Modern Art.  The museum is in a Renzo Piano designed building right on the water.  We decided to have lunch there (in general we’ve found most art museums have really good restaurants these days, Jackson, MS was no exception BTW) but unfortunately the menu was based on the current special exhibit, so everything had a Chinese flair to it.  As someone who doesn’t eat Asian food I decided on the bread and butter and olives.  Delicious.  (But it should be noted that the butter had some flair of its own, in the form of added seaweed and fried shrimp eyeballs.)  We sat facing the water and really enjoyed seeing everyone enjoy the little beach area outside the museum.  The collection and exhibits were fine, but honestly nothing we were uber impressed with or inspired by.  But so it goes sometimes.  We had lunch late and enjoyed a leisurely walk back and popped into a few shops before turning in early.

On our last morning in Oslo we went to the National Gallery (free on Thursdays!) right when they opened so that we could see the Scream without elbowing our way through tour groups.  It looked just as you’d expect it to.  But the real discovery in that museum was Peder Balke.  Neither of us were familiar with his work before, but both of us were really taken by it.  It seems as though he was using a reductive technique.  There were several of his works, including several smaller paintings that seemed almost like studies for a larger painting.  The way they were grouped in a cluster was really neat.  I found one post card by him and I am going to search out a book.  Great discovery!  After the quick visit to the National gallery we were off to get the train to Gothenberg, Sweden (apparently that city is spelled several ways depending on who is spelling it, but I am using the spelling I can remember, which is not the Swedish spelling) and then a rental car to Jonkoping.  Good bye Norway.  I feel as though I hardly knew you, but got a pretty good taste of things.  What would I have liked to do more of?  Hike.  That is one thing I don’t think we did enough of.  We spent lots of time walking and sight seeing, and saw some incredible things, but it would have been fun to hike more.

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(notes on photos: top = a sign in the architecture museum that seemed appropriate for our journey; second: Vigeland sculpture in the park; third: Oslo opera house (or opera husset?); fourth: architectural model, love love love those trees!; fifth: the harbor outside the Astrup; last but not least, ok, bathroom selfies are super weird.  But this bathroom in the architecture museum was incredible.  That coat rack is in the stall! SO I just had to get a photo of that place.)

Yes way, Norway!

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On Friday, July 28 we met Bonnie & Kent (who flew to CPH the afternoon before) at the Round Tower.  It was a beautiful tower with incredible views from the observation deck at the top.  Later that afternoon the four us flew to Bergen, Norway for the start of the 50th anniversary family vacation.

 

Flying into Bergen resulted in an incredible view of the coast.

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We took the funicular up to Mt. Floyen where there was a great view of the harbor.

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The next day Dave and I hiked up there for a while.  (photos above from our hike)We went to a couple of very good museums and took the bus to Edvard Greig’s summer house for a concert.

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We spent all day Monday, July 31 on a Norway in a Nutshell tour that involved a train to a bus to a boat to a train to another train.  We were gone 11 hours, but the views were really incredible.  The size of the mountains around the fjords was truly amazing.

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The Bergen public library features a gargoyle wearing glasses.  Because duh!

Next up, a long train to Oslo.

CP + DP in CPH

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On the evening of Tuesday, July 25 we flew to Copenhagen.  The start of a very long (for us) vacation.  They say a picture is worth 1000 words, so think of this as a really wordy post.  Here are some photos from CPH.

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(photo: life jackets from refugees at Island of Lesbos in Greece, Ai Weiwei installation)

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(photo: swan swimming alongside our kayak in the canals of Copenhagen)

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(photo: kayaking thru CPH)

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(photo: my favorite chair from the Danish chair exhibit at the Denmark Design Museum)

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(Photo: neat car)

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(photo: almost to CPH)

Why so quiet?

IMG_0031Things have been quiet over here on this blog.  Quiet?  More like an eerie silence.  (Tangent alert. Like once when Dave and I sat in this park near our house and didn’t hear one bird.  It was bizarre.  I had never been in that park without the sound of birds doing their bird things.  We wondered whether someone had sprayed chemicals or what the cause could possibly be.)

So.  Quiet. No posts since February.  And here we are in the middle of July.  I can’t give a real reason.  I was busy.  I didn’t feel like writing. I had nothing interesting to say (do I ever?).  So no posts.  But we are about to go on a summer vacation of epic proportions and I am committed to documenting it over here.  So maybe stay tuned.  Or don’t.  I’m not the boss of you.

pink hat revolution

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Remember a few weeks back I wrote about revolution?  At the time I was mostly thinking of the yoga kind, but certainly the marches etc. were on my mind.  My friend Maria is an incredibly talented interior designer and she recently started painting.  And wouldn’t you know it, she is incredibly talented at that too.  She posted an image of a painting she made shortly before the weekend of the women’s marches and it seemed to sum up the whole thing beautifully.  A perfectly knit pussy hat floating in a twinkly galaxy.  This modern symbol of feminism or femaleness, or whatever word you want to use, floating untethered out amongst the sky and stars.  And larger than life.  As most good women are.  It just looked like the perfect image to capture my thoughts about what is going on, what it means, and how I fit into it.  When I received that painted piece of paper in the mail I was flooded with appreciation and admiration for my friend that created it and for all the women that marched.  But it also made me think aloud, what next?  What can and are we going to do now?

I don’t have an answer to my question.  I can’t know what you are going to do when I don’t even know what I am going to do.  I don’t think I am a fighter or a leader in that way.  I am angry and sad and sometimes it all seems hopeless.  I don’t want to feel this way.  But I also don’t know that I can make myself crazy over too many things outside the purview of my control.  I can make calls.  I do make calls.  I can talk with my friends and neighbors, but we already agree with each other and are all in the same state of disbelief.

When I thought that John Kerry was going to be POTUS and we would finally be rid of W I was just elated.  And then there was that hard cold reality.  At the time, I couldn’t imagine anything worse than 4 more years of dubya.  I sure can now!  I don’t even have to imagine it this time.  You know, I remember the morning that John Kerry was going to give his concession speech and we got wind that he would be leaving his Louisburg Square home and riding over.  I worked on Charles Street at the time and the street was lined with people that left their offices and stores and homes to applaud him as he rode down the street.  I was still in disbelief as he rode by, and looked right at me and gave a thumbs up.  I burst into tears.  I knew that I would never forget that physical feeling, and I haven’t.  If he could be so positive and give that symbol of it’llallbea-ok, surely I had to feel positive too.  But this time it feels different.  Way different.  Because this time it feels like the rules of the game are being changed as the ball is in the air.  There is no predictability or accountability.  We have alternative facts, alternative rules of law and a blatant disregard for decency.  And we have fear.  Real fear.  What do we do with all this?  I am not sure.

While I am still processing and tying to figure it all out I reached out to a local theatre and asked if they would offer a group rate for the people I work with to go see I Am Not Your Negro, the documentary about James Baldwin.  It is a small gesture, a small event, but I hope that it sparks conversation and reignites the passion in us that brought us all to work in the nonprofit legal sector in the first place.  Something else to think about in these troubling times.

Where did this blog come from?

Hello.  I am posting what was meant to be the original first post on this blog back in 2015.  It took 2 years, but most of these feelings still feel pretty real.  A lot has happened in the last two years.  Including two additional major losses.  Our 20 year old only cat in May 2015 and my Mother in May 2016.  She suffered a stroke in April 2015 (hey, maybe thats why I never got the blog going?) and never went home.  It was a year in and out of multiple long-term care facilities and hospitals.  And she was 1000 miles from here.  It wasn’t a great year.  It wasn’t a great two years!  But in February 2017 I can honestly say that I think I’ve made a lot of internal progress and that I am in a better place with so much grief.  But back to where it all began.  Here is that first intended post:

First post for the new blog, Day-Blind Stars

Happy New Year? We’ll see. So long 2014. Adios. Get lost. See ya, wouldn’t wanna be ya. All that. 2014 had its ups, but it also had its downs. And man were the downs way down.

In the spring I learned my father had cancer. It was a bit of a shock for a number of reasons, the least of which was my physical reaction to it. We had not been close and it had actually been years since we had talked. I would like to say he was difficult, and I wouldn’t be wrong, but certainly I am not without a role in our difficult relationship. But even though he was not a close dominant presence in my life, he was there. Everyday. When I tie my shoes incorrectly using the rabbit ear method because that was how he taught me to do it when my little fingers twisted in frustrated knots trying to make a real bow. And here I am just shy of 40 and I still don’t know how to properly tie my shoes! Or how I sometimes talk to myself and know that it is OK because my father told me it was perfectly normal to talk to yourself. He told me this using himself as an example. His story was that when he was a little boy there was a closet in his bathroom with a curtain for a door and when he would sit on the toilet he would pretend that there was a queen behind the curtain (a room with two thrones?) and he would carry on conversations with her. Ok. Talking to oneself is a-ok. But conversing with a Queen whilst on the loo, not so sure. And my enjoyment of wine. My dad taught me that too. And in other subtle ways, like how when I see a seagull I always think, there goes Jonathan Livingston. I once heard my father say that same thing aloud and I was shocked that we had read the same book. So when my dad was diagnosed with cancer and reported (through my siblings or his wife, I never heard it from him directly) that he had 5-8 months to live, I felt a physical hollow in my hand. It was as if when I went to grab something I had to reach again and give an extra squeeze in order to feel anything. And I felt as if “my father is dying” was on a loop in my head. I don’t think I said it aloud nearly as often as I think I said it. My father is dying. My father is dying. It was constant. Like a faucet accidentally left on.

I got used to the idea that it was happening. I saw him in early October at his house in Ohio and then one last time in the hospital in November. He died on Veteran’s Day. Of cancer caused by his exposure to Agent Orange in the Vietnam War. Is that hipster-level irony? It was sad. And difficult. And the emotions I felt were many and they were confusing. I have a lot to write on the subject, but not now.

And then December started with so much fun it was scary. (I am prone to waiting for the other shoe to drop, so fun is often at the expense of feeling true joy.) Friends visiting from NY and Open Studios. I was drunk on the brief escape from grief. Until. Until I woke up one morning to find a text message that my grandmother had died during the night. She was 95 and in so many ways I don’t have a childhood or early adult memory that is not tangled up in her.

My grandparents were the dominant force in my life. They were so much more to me than any other living person – sibling, parent, Aunt, Uncle or cousin. I thought they made the sun rise and set just for our own amusement and wonder. Wonder. How Great Thou Art. Sitting on a stiff-backed oak church pew in Antioch, IL listening to my grandmother belt “Oh lord my God, when I in AWESOME WONDER, consider all the worlds thy hands have made, I see the stars, I HEAR THE ROLLING THUNDER…Then sings MY SOUL, my SAVIOR GOD to thee: How GREAT THOU ART, How GREAT THOU ART!” I know that was a tangent, just go with it. Here’s the thing, my grandmother really let her voice loose in church. She would belt out the hymns with gusto. And me? I would be barely audible, mouthing instead the words I found so beautiful. And I had a great satisfaction in listening to my grandmother sing in church. I was satisfied in the knowledge that there was at least one person with a singing voice worse than mine. She might not have known it, but her voice was like nails on a chalk board. I felt my spine shudder more than once. Usually when she got into a verse she found particularly meaningful. Such as “I will go Lord, if you lead me. I will hold your people in my heart.” Or “And I will RAISE you UP on EAGLES wings, bear you on the BREATH of dawn…” she just let it go. And go it went. Into your bones like a brutal winter wind. Her hitting the chorus would jerk my grandpa awake next to me. And he would startle for a quick moment before settling back in to “rest his eyes.”

So on the one hand I had been thinking about my grandmother’s death since November 1989 when my grandfather died. Once he died I think it sunk in that she was going to eventually die too. I had already lost both my paternal grandparents, but they were different. Losing my grandfather felt a little like losing a limb. I remember that day. I was a freshman in high school and I woke up with a pit in my stomach and I stayed home from school. And in the afternoon I learned that my grandfather had died. My sister’s friend came to see if I was OK. And I just stood there thinking, am I? Am I? I had no idea. And then I started wondering about my grandmother’s death. I wondered if my grandmother would still be alive when I turned 16. If she would still be alive when I went to prom. Or if she would still be alive when I graduated from high school. Or college. Or got married. I listed the major life events and wondered whether she would be there with me. And each time one event concluded with her there I wondered about the next. And then I stopped thinking about it. Until two years ago when I visited her at the nursing home and she didn’t recognize me. That’s when I started grieving. The physical death was something else altogether. But that feeling of being invisible or unimportant to the person who made me feel special was a death that was deep.

I was thinking about these two deaths at the end of 2014 and thinking how I haven’t really grieved yet. Little grieving, or grief lite, but not the grand grieving. Why not? Time. And I imagined the physical manifestation of my grief and I saw myself in a shed somewhere across a snowy field and under a big tree, wrapped in a wool blanket with a candle, huddled in a corner with my knees tucked under my chin and just crying. Really snotty, ugly, red, puffy-faced crying. For a long time. And then having a glass of wine and a piece of the most delicious bread with Irish butter on it. That is my idea of grieving. I shared that image with my friend Maria and she said it made her think of the poem The Peace of Wild Things by Wendell Berry.

When despair for the world grows in me
And I wake in the night at the least sound
In fear of what my life and my children’s lives may be,
I go and lie down when the wood drake
Rests in his beauty on the water, and the great heron feeds.
I come into the peace of wild things,
Who do not tax their lives with forethought
Of grief. I come into the presence of still water
And I feel above me the day-blind stars
Waiting with their light. For a time
I rest in the grace of the world and am
Free.

So beautiful. And that is what made me think to start a little blog again. One that I can invite people to and keep hidden away from others. I don’t know how often I will write, but I want to give myself a place to do it. To share words. And sometimes photos too.

Cheers to 2015!